Quantcast
Channel: Heidi Horticulture
Viewing all 215 articles
Browse latest View live
↧

Poisonous Berries In Your Garden (Backyard)

July 21, 2013, 5:30 am
$
0
0
There is a whole other realm of gardening that we need to educate ourselves in. The by-product of many "beautiful" plants that provide visual interest in the garden, can also reek havoc with children and pets if their "beautiful" fruit are ingested.

Here are two of the most unsuspecting noxious berries in my garden right now.

1.  Convolaria majalis (Lily of the Valley). I love this plant in flower. Once the white bell flowers wither and die, green berries mature to these bright red ones. I've placed it in the garden where I know no children or pets are around to be lured or interested in picking. I've even placed a wire mesh at the base of the fence where it is situated. No cats or dogs can get through.

Here are the berries drying in late summer with the foliage. The berries hold on until some major frost hits them.





2. Deadly Nightshade (Atropa belladonna). I did not introduce this plant to my garden. It showed up and began twining around my trellis. I have a young evergreen vine just establishing here, but this Nightshade made it's way up the trellis faster than the evergreen vine.  Considered a weed, you can find this vine nearly everywhere. Surprisingly, I've witnessed birds eating them with no troubles. They intern poop out the berries and help the vine seed itself just about any where.

I kept it because of their lovely purple clustered flowers and the fact that it grows well in shade, but don't let that fool you. The Deadly Nightshade vine berries have been known to harm and kill unsuspecting pigs when ingested.

Their berries are numerous and have an attractive look about them. A distant relative to the tomato, this plant should be ripped out in any garden where children frequent.


Have a look at the easily recognizable leaf of the vine. Deadly Nightshade is a fast grower and vegetative. Plant growth dies down to the ground overwinter, but root is still alive - a herbaceous vine that returns each spring. 
Here are two great resources on poisonous plants that we should be careful of:

Common Poisonous Plants and Plant Parts

Garden Plants Poisonous to People

If a child or pet ingests either of these, please call your local poison control. Ontario Poison Centre 
↧
Search

Photo of the Month - August 2013

August 1, 2013, 1:56 pm
$
0
0
Now this photo ain't the greatest. The flower of this Cornus kousa chinensis however, has linked, or fused petals. Reminding me of a dove. Thought I'd share it. I think it's soooo beautiful.
Cornus kousa chinensis

↧
↧

Poplar Petiole Gall Aphid

August 7, 2013, 4:06 pm
$
0
0
Normally, when I walk by this Poplar Tree, I see its leaves shimmering and fluttering in the wind. Today, I saw leaves rather weighed down and stunted in size compared to the ones way higher in the tree canopy.

On closer examination I saw these:
These growths are galls. Masses of plant tissue that grow over nesting insects. I wasn't sure if it was an aphid or mite which caused this. Turns out it's an aphid. 

Unfortunately, this tree has other issues - some dying branches and peeling bark. The leaves show a bit of stress with perhaps a form of rust. These galls won't kill off the tree, but certainly don't help matters.
The best info I could find on this aphid is on Manitoba's Agriculture Food and Rural Initiatives site.
There you'll find the contents inside the gall and the aphid's life cycle. Well done, MAF&RI!
↧

Clematis - For Shade: Clematis virginiana

August 15, 2013, 3:35 pm
$
0
0
I miss having the larger flowering clematis vines that I love. In my shaded nook, I've been so tempted to plant some. Instead, I opted to find a "native" clematis (known to tolerate moderate shade). This one has delicate white flowers; called Clematis virginiana - Virgin's Bower Clematis.
Virgin's Bower Clematis (Clematis virginiana)

About a third of the vine is covered with these star flowers and I am quite happy with the result.

In the autumn, these flowers will turn into whispy, silky seed heads - adding more interest to the garden.

Planted two years ago, I'm now able to enjoy flowers in nearly complete shade. This is more than I expected. Last year, leafy and leggy growth dominated the entire corner of my fence, with no bloom. This past spring, I cut back the vine hard - to 2 feet. Removing over 2/3rds its mass. I trained it here and there, so its growth was spread evenly and then cut again in early June - tipping back the long leafy stems to a more manageable length.

In full sun and with rich soil, this clematis grows wild. It's known to be invasive. In my situation, it's quite manageable and happily situated. Even the neighbour enjoys the stems poking through to their side. 

Next, I will attempt to grow some spring flowering Alpina varieties of clematis. See how they fair.
↧

Ontario Cicada - Homoptera: Cicadidae

August 27, 2013, 5:15 pm
$
0
0

Sitting and relaxing in my backyard after work, I heard the typical summer day call coming from the trees. Cicada's singing their summer song.

To some it's annoying, to me, it always reaffirms summers end and warm evenings in my garden space. The male Cicada's shrill, (as it's known) is quite loud and you usually only hear it on hot humid days like today.

Coincidentally, this fella (not sure if it's male or female) was sitting in my garden - tucked in and perched on my Vinca ground-cover.
A Cicada's life cycle is quite remarkable. Some species of cicada live up to 17 years. This Ontario Cicada however, only lives 4-5 years. Most of their life is spent under ground. Once adults mate, the female lays eggs in the twigs and small branches of trees. They make puncture holes in the tissue and bark of the tree, laying about 15-20 eggs at a time. Once the eggs hatch, the young nymphs fall to the ground and then dig into the soil. Staying close to the trees roots, they make a casing - or cell like structure and feed by sucking the sap of the tree roots. This stage takes about 4 years until the nymphs are full grown. At this stage they come out of the soil, crawl up a twiggy area of a trees trunk, or branch and fixate themselves tightly for their next stage.

The cicada's exoskeleton skin cracks down the backside of the full grown nymph Cicada and the adult emerges and squeezes through the old skin. Here I found it's shed skin on the trunk of a Green Ash tree.

Close up.

Their size in relation to my hand.
Once their wings dry and harden, they begin to fly. Males sing to attract other females to start the whole process over again.

What a joy to be able to see and photograph one so close. It was a good sport and let me get right in its face. :)

A favourite food for birds, gardeners don't really have to worry about these guys. If their numbers were to over populate, sometimes their feeding and egg laying damage is noticeable. It's best to let birds and other animals have their fill of these amazing creatures.
↧
↧

When Cilantro becomes Coriander

August 31, 2013, 7:19 am
$
0
0
For some reason, I always associate Coriandrum sativum; the green leafy portion of the herb as cilantro and its dried seed as coriander. Yet, essentially they are interchangeable. I used this association to come up with my blog entry title. Hope it doesn't confuse folks.
It's late August and I've basically run out of usable foliage for fresh leaf harvesting off my cilantro plant. Here you can see it has bolted and started to produce seeds.
Wish my photo was better, but I love their larger 4 petals flowers fanned over a smaller star shaped florets.

Once the flowers wither, these plump seeds arrive. I plan leaving them on the stems to dry so I can collect some for re-seeding next year and some for the kitchen.

In desperation, I've used this ferny dill bolting foliage in cooking. It's just as tasty as the parsley shaped leaves. When it bolts like this, unfortunately there isn't much to go round.

I used to compost my cilantro once it bolts, but I've seen bees and butterflies enjoy the white flowers and I can't wait to harvest organic seed and use them in some Asian meals. Going to let them dry and harden them on the plant and enjoy harvesting the seeds in October.
Have a look at my previous post on Cilantro/Coriander.

↧

DIY - Bug Hotel

September 3, 2013, 3:29 pm
$
0
0
Staying in town for the Labour Day weekend, I decided to do a DIY project once I saw this:
I think every garage has a container like this - filled with bits and pieces of wood.
The DIY Bug Hotel
I was rather weary when I first heard about Bug Hotels. Thinking, 'ya - right, all I'll attract is earwigs'. Then I noticed in a friend's outdoor wood pile. There, tiny beetles and ladybugs were crawling between the piled firewood. I thought, hmmm - this would be a better, more permanent home for such creatures. An area where such bugs would benefit the garden, rather than hiding far away from the plants.
These insect hotels are noted to help attract beneficial insects, such as: Lady Bugs, Lacewings and Solitary Bees. So much of their habitat has been eliminated within urban areas. I hope this brings helpful insects back to the garden, to aid in combating the pesky ones.

 


First thing, was to decide on what wood was useful and see if I could find enough pieces to create a box.
With the help of a handy dandy fella - the wood was cut to size and laid out before assembling. Thanks, Renzo!
These are the tools you'll need to complete this project. It's your choice on using nails, screws and or glue.

I glued and nailed the wood together. You could easily use screws which would make a stronger built box.
I used 1 1/2 inch nails.

I made sure the frame fit the backing before gluing and nailing it down.

This was the easiest part.
The backing is important, it helps protect the insects from harsh winds and rain.

I compartmentalized some sections, so that you can use varied materials. But this is not necessary. It does however make it easier to assemble the woody bits for insects to creep into. Each segment allows you to cram in material tighter.
Glue each divider to the backing. Mark on the frame where they meet and then make a line on the backing and that way you can secure them easily with nails or screws.
Now, I used 1 to 1 1/2 inch branches of birch, cut down to two inches. Each piece should be as high as the frame depth.  I used a drill bit and drilled holes that went through the entire birch dowel. This is a great overwintering spot for solitary bees and beetles. Cut enough birch dowels to fill an entire compartment. I used about 25 pieces to cover a 10 x 6 inch spot. Make sure they are packed in tight. I also used some cut down pieces of bamboo and branches to wedge in a tighter fit. Whatever material you have, as long as it's natural.
I saved 5cm caliber branches from garden work and cut them down to fit the compartment on the bottom shelf of the hotel. The length should be precise. Once you lay cut stems over each other, they fit snugly when pressed firmly down. Pack them in tightly to overfilling.

I also saved and found peeling bark off of dead wood. This bark is ideal for beetles and Lady Bugs to overwinter in. A firewood pile is great for this. You'll find plenty of hardwood bark that is ideal. **PLEASE DO NOT PEEL BARK OFF LIVING TREES.**

This is not necessary; if the bark, stems and birch dowels are firmly wedged in the hotel. Yet, squirrels and racoons can wreak havoc and destroy your work, so it's best to cover with some chicken or rodent wire. Cut a piece larger than the frame, fold over excess tightly and fasten with staples. Watch for sharp metal ends and tuck under.



Lastly - use eye hooks, as I've used here to fasten it do a fence or to hang from a tree or wall.


Here, it is firmly hanging from a cedar fence, right near a pond and garden. Tucked away from too much exposure and sheltered from heavy rains. An ideal spot for our guests to overwinter.

Would make a great Christmas gift for the avid gardener. It also looks like a piece of art-work - doesn't it? You could jazz it up by adding a little roof, or decorative frame. For now, I am happy with this project and can't wait to see what insects will make it their home!  

 I'd love to see your version of Bug Hotel! What materials did you use?

↧

Common House Plant Pests - Part 3: Mealybugs - Planococcus citri

September 9, 2013, 3:34 pm
$
0
0
I was asked to rescue this Jade plant (Crassula ovata) for a friend. They were wondering what the white stuff was covering the base of each leaf.

This Jade plant has seen better days. Leaves are distorted, the growth is weak - becoming susceptible to attack. Every leaf axil was infested with Mealybug. Their typical white coating and powdery white wax is a dead giveaway. Female adults are hidden beneath, sucking sap from the host plant.
I hate using chemicals. High pressure water is by far my favourite control for Mealybug. Don't worry about damaging leaves. The spray from a garden hose is not that harsh. Don't use a pressure washer, just a hose attachment for the garden.

* Note: Be sure to spray on a driveway or area where the Mealybugs cannot transfer to another plant. In the summer months, Mealybugs can easily survive and find other hosts in your garden.  Treat your plant in this manner on a hot summer day. The Mealybugs will fall to the pavement and because their food source is gone, they will die in the hot sun.


the jet setting on your hose attachment.
Use the flat or


Liberally spray the plant in all directions. Under the foliage, on top of the foliage - reaching all the nooks and crannies. This pressure will help dislodge leaves that need to come off anyway.
After you've sprayed the plant thoroughly with water, make sure any dislodged Mealybugs that have fallen on the top of the soil in the pot is also sprayed out.

Soil is generally compacted enough in pots. Spraying this hard won't wash all the soil away. Spray on an angle and tip the pot if necessary.

Spray the saucer on both sides thoroughly. The more thorough you are, the less likely the Mealybugs will return.

Spray the pot, under the rim, beneath - everywhere. Mealybugs are persistent and they hide in any corner, nook or crack.
Remove any damaged, old, wrinkly leaves. Be sure to spray with water at the leaf axil after the leaves are removed. Eggs or small in-star Mealybugs may still be there.


Use rubbing alcohol as an additional control. Apply with a cotton swab and paint the leaf axils, buds, bases of the leaves/stems.

Be sure to get all the leaves. It's an arduous task, but worth it. You can actually kill off the Mealybug by painting alcohol over its body. It kills them on contact. The alcohol removes their outer white coating and makes their exterior skin dry out.

After painting all the leaf axils and other areas you may think the Mealybugs have been, wipe the pot down with a cloth drenched in rubbing alcohol or a bath of 1 part rubbing alcohol: 3 parts water: 1 teaspoon dish soap. This will prevent any eggs or crawlers from surviving. You may also want to consider removing the plant from its current pot and replant in a new pot.
Once you've treated your plant, resituate in a bright area, away from other house plants until you know the infested plant is clear. Add a layer of fresh potting soil and use houseplant fertilizer every two weeks when watering. Monitor your plant every other day for re-infestations. Retreat until no more Mealybugs are to be found.

In the winter, Mealybugs don't like the cold. If you can't spray as I did on the driveway but you want to kill off the Mealybugs; bring the infested plant towards a cold window sill. The Mealybugs will move away from the coldest side of the plant to the warmer leaves. Once they congregate, remove with a cotton swab doused with rubbing alcohol.

Hope this helps.
↧
Search

Photo(s) of the Month - September

September 19, 2013, 1:48 pm
$
0
0
It's now the tail end of Hosta flowering season. There's something so simple yet stunning about these flowers when you take the time and examine them up close.



Trivia: Did you know you can eat Hosta flowers? -- Yep, great in salads or for cake decorating!
↧
↧

A Grateful Gardener

October 14, 2013, 9:01 am
$
0
0
Even though the gardening season is coming to an end; in reflection of this Thanks Giving season, there are plenty of things a gardener should be grateful for this time of year.


1. Critters and beneficial insects that help break down litter and organic matter for great compost come spring.

2. Leafy matter, filled with nutrient rich materials - receiving it for FREE! With a little effort, we can reclaim it for beneficial use in the garden!

3. Late season flowering. Reminds me of abundant life - even in harsh conditions!

4. Fruit of Harvest: Many colours, textures, foods for us and wildlife - not to mention winter interest.



5. Colourful Fall Foliage. Just when you think the plant has given its all... A display of fall colour finishes up the growing season with a spectacular show.

Autumn Chrysanthemum Show at Centennial Greenhouse

What are you thankful for?  Wishing everyone a blessed Thanks Giving season! xo

↧

Overwintering Dusty Miller - Senecio cineraria

October 28, 2013, 2:35 pm
$
0
0
Here in zone 5a-6b, by fluke this Dusty Miller (Senecio cineraria) over-wintered last year. This time, I prefer to make sure it happens again.

The main reason I believe it overwintered last year was because of the snow coverage we had and the fact that there was a good layer of leaf matter that was never removed. This year it has the added benefit of deep roots and companion plants (coleus) which will be left to die back to the ground. Acting as an insulation barrier.
Both the fern leaf cultivars ('Silverdust')...
...and broad leaf ('New Look') cultivars flower:

Yet, here in Ontario, they don't flower their first season. Only when they develop...

...woody stems (the second year woody growth).


Add lots of leafy matter. Water regularly. Don't let it dry out. Up till heavy frosts. Heap with snow overwinter. Avoid salt.  Next year watch to see new life emerges from the woody stems and trim back to a tidy shape.

Enjoy!
↧

Photo of the Month - October 2013

October 29, 2013, 4:08 pm
$
0
0
It's a bit late, but better late than never.

I couldn't decide on which photo. So here are both. Two late bloomers left in my gardens.

Eupatorium rugosum "Chocolate"

Geranium Maverick Salmon

↧

Natural Outdoor Winter (Container) Urn Design

November 12, 2013, 1:55 pm
$
0
0
Frosty nights and cold days damage what ever is left of fall planters. Right now, garden centres and florists are fully stocked with evergreen boughs and accents. Time to get designing, and get your planters ready before the soil is too frozen solid to work. Selection is usually best by the end of November, so don't miss out. If you're worried it's too early, don't - you can always store the boughs in a garage or shed until you design closer to Christmas. However, be forewarned regarding your soil. It may be too frozen to work or empty.

Here are two natural winter urn inserts:
Here I used a mixture of birch stems, dogwood, white pine, western cedar, douglas fir, oregonia, magnolia, seeded eucalyptus, glittered rattan balls, glittered seed pods, birch lollies, and pine cones.

I enjoy using white tipped pine cones with birch stems. It blends in nicely with each other and looks even better with snow.

The container here is a 10" fibre pot filled with sand. Sturdy, easy to pop into any existing decorative container.
Please check out my other designs!
↧
↧

Autumn Clean Up - To Cut Back Or Not

November 22, 2013, 9:06 am
$
0
0
Having worked tending gardens for a while now, I still ponder the pros and cons of a thorough Autumn clean-up.  I sit on the fence regarding this. So does my backyard for now.

Viewing my townhouse garden yesterday, I noticed, I was the ONLY one (within my block of units) that hadn't removed nearly every leaf fallen to the ground. I can't help but worry about this - no seed heads for birds, no winter textural interest. I pride myself when a bird perches on a Rudbeckia or Echinacea seed head.


Having a Gleditsia (Honey Locust) shading much of my garden, I get a lot of tiny leaf litter everywhere. Most of it I compost, but not all of it.
I have colleagues, friends and complete strangers asking me what my opinion is regarding cutting back perennials. Cleaning up beds for the last time before winter yesterday, I had a member of the public stop and ask what to cut back. The conversation ended up being quite lengthy and we both ended it with laughter and a further appreciation of gardening.

Looking over the fence, my tidy neighbours have done a great job winterizing their garden.

The other neighbour has removed every leaf and perennial bit possible. (So grateful for tidy neighbours!) I look like the mess maker.
Personally, I have seen the benefits of perennial leafy matter dying and creating a litter layer that insulates plants. Yet I am reminded of the pain in seeing grasses and plants like Perovskia having been weighed down by winds and snow, eventually blowing over snowy areas of the garden and litter walkways..etc. It looks unsightly and ends up becoming more work in the spring. On the other hand, leafy matter like Hosta leaves whither and make a mushy layer that slugs adore. Slug prevention is key to having healthy, hole free foliage.

So here, instead - I've made a list of perennials I would cut back and others I would leave.

Cut Back:
Hostas
Hemerocallis
Iris
Perovskia
Airy, loose Grasses
Aquilegia
Polygonatum
Penstemon
(or any plant that seeds itself everywhere, or goes mushy and unsightly)

Leave Alone:
Rudbeckia
Upright Grasses
Evergreen Grasses
Echinacea
Liatris
Astible
Artemisia
Helleborus 
Heuchera
Tiarella
Sedum
Ground Covers like: Vinca, Hedera, Lamium...
(or any sturdy plant that has evergreen foliage, or growth that remains upright and can withstand snow)


Before and after. My compromise. I've left anything that still looks alright. Hard to believe it's a month away til Christmas!

I can't imagine removing any perennial that still looks this good.

Perennial fall colours are key to keep interest. A little leaf litter will compost down by April.

The best advice I can give when it comes to fall clean up, is not cutting back everything. Decide first:
  • What plants require litter layer so they can properly overwinter. 
  • If you don't know which plants die back to mush, wait til heavy frosts wilt down foliage.
  • Clean up now anything that looks like it may be too much work to do in the spring. 
  • Determine what may cause insect problems next summer. 
  • Leave any plant that gives you interest overwinter. Think of birds, and textures you would like to see in the bleakness of February. 

* Yet, do remember: cutting back perennials in autumn can make you forget where they are come spring. If necessary divisions or renovations of the beds are planned for spring, leaving evidence behind can make life easier for you come job time.

Sad time of year...but at least I can enjoy what's left.



↧

Photo of the Month: November 2013

November 28, 2013, 5:03 pm
$
0
0
Nippon Daisy (Nipponanthemum nipponicum)
The Nippon Daisy can be temperamental here in zone 5a-6b. It's a late bloomer and has evergreen herbaceous foliage. A delight to see still flowering in early November.
↧
Search

Christmas Outdoor Container - How To DIY

December 4, 2013, 4:20 pm
$
0
0
I've had several requests to break down the steps in making one of these outdoor arrangements for planters.

Here, I have made one with a silhouette tree in the background. I have a lot of black iron accents at my home. I enjoy using this, since after Christmas, the iron evergreen really pops out during the snowy winter months ahead.
This is a square container. Note, when using a square container, you generally need to have more material to fill the corners.
First - use sandy, or sandy soil to fill your container. It's far more dense, more forgiving when you have to insert and re-insert your greens. Plus it freezes into a solid block, once the sand is moist and the temps dip below -5. You can use potting soil, but generally it's too light and cannot weigh down the pot well enough during windy conditions. Stick with sand if you can.

Second - arrange your focal points. Those that give height and attention to your design. Here I chose birch stems with varying heights and an iron tree silhouette. The great aspect of sand is it holds birch stems really well.

Fun evergreen tree silhouette.


From far left: BC Cedar, Green Boxwood, red-twig dogwood stems & white pine. I find these to be the staple greens I use most often. They hold their colour well through winter. They are widely available and aren't as expensive as some of the other greens out there. 
 Tools needed:
  • Sharp pair of pruners
  • Working gloves that aren't cumbersome
  • Saw to cut the birch stems down to size (or buy already cut)
I begin by layering one green at a time. Start with white pine. It has bulkier stems that are harder to insert after the container is full of material. Begin with taller (longer) pieces to go around the birch stems and weeping, shorter stems to line the base. This develops a 'skirt' which flows over the container edge. Be sure to tuck each stem in well and leave about a 6 inch end to insert well enough.
Here is a coin phrase when it comes to containers. "You need a) a filler, b) then a spiller, then c) a thriller." Will get to that in a minute..
Can't say enough about fresh cuts. ANGLE them, making sharp points. a) they insert better this way and b) once the stem is in contact with moist sand, a fresh cut will continue to draw moisture up the stem. Making your design last longer.
Depending on the quality of white pine you find, many of the stems will look like this. With the bulky nature of the stem at the base, you can't shove this in the container without it looking...poorly.

Cut in sections. Leaving long lengthy shoots for the centre of your design. Mid length for bulk and small lengths for filler and spill overs.


Here I used about a half a bundle, working with tall bits, and shorter bits to fill in the spaces evenly. I didn't fill it entirely, not yet. More to fill in.

Next is BC Cedar. This adds texture, richer green colour and some really great spill over effect.

This is where lots of folks go wrong. Like the white pine, cut back your cedar fronds like this. Depending on the size of container, of course. Some container sizes require the full length, but for the container size demonstrated here, I was able to cut the fronds in 3. Cutting these boughs allows you to work easily with the material without it getting too bulky and floppy.

Insert them between the white pine. So that stems and cut ends are not visible.

You can't even tell this is only a third of the cedar bough.
This creates a layered effect and it adds bulk and texture for a fuller look. The tips and good looking bits should be at the top of the planter, by the birch stems. While the smaller, more gnarly bits get tucked under the white pine bits.

Green boxwood is next. I love this! Oregonia is another variegated form as well. It's lovely too. This really adds luster and shine to the design and again bulk. A little goes a long way. And just like the white pine and cedar, cut this back to smaller bits and arrange accordingly. HINT: when you buy these bundles, look for a lot of stems at the base of the bundle (by the elastic). You'll get more longer bits that way. Many more stems for designing length.

There - again, I used only a half a bundle of each green for this planter.

Now the fun bits. Here is where colour is key. I use red-twig dogwood stems for height and colour variation.

Insert where you need colour contrast and height.

Accessorize: a) ornaments you skewer onto to stems, b) cones, c) coconut husks, d) rattan balls.... you name it, you can get accents on sticks these days at your local garden centre nursery, craft store or dollar store.  I tend to favour more natural accents, but everyone to each his own.

I purchased these artificial berries years ago and reuse them year to year. Great investment.

Tuck in your pieces where you want them to go and you're done. With accents, usually odd numbers work best in combinations. With the amount of greens mentioned above, I made these two containers for about $70 retail in materials. The good thing: I bought reusable accents, birch and the containers will last year to year. Those costs will be avoided for next year's designs.

Be sure to water til freeze-up. When mild breaks in weather occur, give them another drink. I even heap a bit of snow now again and let it melt towards the back of the container. Works just as well. Will last until March.



Enjoy! And Merry Christmas, everyone! xo
↧

Photo of the Month: December 2013

December 23, 2013, 5:23 pm
$
0
0
Wishing you all a very Blessed Merry Christmas!

↧
↧

Icy Winter - Evergreens Covered With Ice

December 28, 2013, 8:39 am
$
0
0
I've heard of these storms, but never once experienced it like us Torontonians have in the past week.
Courtesy of TBG's Paul Zammit

Every where icy branches and hangers have fallen off tree limbs and reeked havoc on electrical lines. Causing blackouts and severe damage. Right during the peak of Christmas celebrations.

Although, beautiful to photograph, not when heavy icy weight is causing damage to horticulture.

When you see branches of evergreens weighed down with ice like this, be sure not to damage the branches further, but support them. Either with a stick wedged beneath for added support, or with twine/roping to give them sling support.

Knock off any large icicles forming on thin, weak branches. With time and weight, small branches will crack under the pressure.
If the weather turns and begins to melt the snow, let nature take its course. Just knock off unwanted icicles that reform over night. Also brush off any added snow. Come spring a good pruning job will enable the plant to regain a healthy form.
↧

Feeding Wildlife In Mid-Winter

January 18, 2014, 6:59 pm
$
0
0
In the bleakness of January, there is little signs of food for wildlife. The berries off the Taxus (yews) bushes are gone:

Even the Ligustrum (privet) berries are gone.

I can't help but feel sorry for wildlife.

There I go, into my pantry to find some treats for the furry friends who endure the cold outside.

I read somewhere, peanuts are the equivalent to junk food for squirrels. So, I kept dried-out almonds that I usually blanch for baking just for this purpose. I think this grey squirrel hit the jack-pot, but wasn't "friendly" nor trustworthy enough to stay close to the pot of gold.

My camera couldn't capture the squirrel quickly enough, for each time it grabbed an almond, it dashed off to the corner of the fenceline. Around an hour later, the almonds were all gone. I choose not to feed them every day. Squirrels will eat only enough to get by and bury the rest. A good handful every other day is plenty.

I also made sure that the birdseed I bought was the better quality brand. Nyjer, millet, sunflower, safflower seeds - to attract all sorts. This Cardinal seems to enjoy both the Taxus yew bush, next to the feeder.
It's important that birds have an exit strategy, or a wide open area close to the feeder. This tight spot isn't the best option, but the Taxus is where Cardinals, Chickadees, Wrens, Sparrows and other birds keep warm from winter winds.

Wild Birds Unlimited is a fabulous store and great resource for attracting wildlife, specifically birds. They'll give the best advice for which seed to use, which sort of feeder works best, as well as great books and information on bird species and bird watching. If you're worried about the mess that the bird seed husks leave behind, there is unhusked seed available too. I learn something new every time when visiting.

What a treat to see bright red Cardinals, Blue Jays, Yellow Finch outside your window on a cold winter's day. 


↧

Gardening Books: My Collection

January 20, 2014, 12:28 pm
$
0
0
I've been gardening now, oh gee - near 16-17 years. In all these years, I've acquired and purchased several gardening books. I'm happy to say that I loan out several each year to folks, encouraging them to better their gardening skills. But sadly, some have never been returned (I lost track on whom borrowed what). Alas, there are some I won't part with and some I find are more coffee table, picturesque versions of what I had hoped would be better reading material. Many have been given away to Sally Anne, but those mentioned here are keepers.

The breakdown: I have several types of gardening books, dealing with design, pests/disease, weeds, plant ID and those that I call, inspiring books.

a.)Michael Dirr's Manual of Woody Landscape Plants, is by far the equivalent of the Bible in the woody or herbaceous plant world.

b.) Plant Health Care section. Anything to do with the health of plants. Pests, disease and treatments. Very zonal and regionally specific. IMPORTANT: when acquiring info on pests and disease, getting books on UK problems isn't the best for say those of us living in Ontario. OMAFRA has yearly publications. I have two in my collection. Great resource.

c.) Plant choices, practical advice and basics of gardening. Really great reads in winter, when all you want to do is get your fingers dirty again. Good refresher books.

Here is a sneak peak of what it's like inside Dirr's Manual:

Alphabetically and botanically listed plants, with morphology, insect/disease info; basically everything about the plant. Comes in a herbaceous version too. A true investment. I've had this book for ages, and it will never part from me, aside from perhaps new additions.

d.) Landscaping books. DIY books that help you step by step achieve desired goals. Deck design, fence design, landscape design. This section has many more are out on loan. 

e.) All season guides. These are great for when you are just learning as you go. Helps prep you for next steps.

 f.) Pruning books. Essential books. Practical guides, photos and specific info on how to prune correctly.

g.) Specific growing info for specific plants. Wonderful for hints and tricks to the trade.

h.) Fun, eye candy. When you are in need of inspiration.

i.) Help guides. Specific needs. Gardening trends or tough to garden areas. These are some of my favs!

j.) Yearly grower catalogues. New introductions and quick, easy access to size, shape and conditions necessary for plants to grow. I keep these with me at all times, leaving them in my back pack or in my truck at work. Available online too, but if you can snag these, they become invaluable.

h.) Grower guides. Heritage Perennials puts out this guide and renews it every couple of years. I buy 2-3 copies, since it usually gets torn to bits and lent out the most.


l.) My mini garden book. Gift from a great friend. Love this little guy. Kids love to look at this one.

m.) Book series, this is Taylor's Pocket Guide broken down by specifics. Pocket guides for working daily.

n.) Specific species info. Colourful photos and bit size info. Great for travel and for botanical walks.

o.) Finally, this LONE PINE series. LOVE, Love, love THIS SERIES! The great thing about Lone Pine, is they customize their books to region specific info. Here, great info pertaining to Ontario and Canada is available. These are not fluff books. Generally these are the ones I grab at home when I have a dilemma, need to remember or learn something.

16 years and counting. Can't wait to see new books on gardening trends and to learn heaps more.

What gardening books do you love?


                                                           

↧
Viewing all 215 articles
Browse latest View live
Search