Heidi Horticulture

I have the pleasure to garden elsewhere, outside my own little garden. At this time of year, I truly enjoy working at this location:

Hosta plantaginea has to have the most fragrant flowers I've ever come across. At this location, there are about 34 hostas all blooming at once. The fragrance is intense.

The blooms fill the palm of my hand. They are so large. I believe this one is 'Grandiflora'.

Bending over from the rain dew drops, they are just lovely.

Once open, the flowers invite your nose to take a sample of their light citrus scent.

Too boot, I have taken a sample to taste. Really light, fresh taste. Would go great as a salad topper or even for a floral cake design.

On one Hosta, I counted over 23 blooms and buds. They flower for about a month, even longer - depending on the moisture levels.

Due note: because the Hosta plantanginea varieties are thin leaved hostas, please make sure you take measures to control slug and snail infestations. They can be slug bait in the wrong situation. Planting in a group maximizes their flower fragrance as well as they will attract hummingbirds when there are more flowers to go around.

At this time of year, sitting in the garden and watching the varied amount of bees, hover flies, moths, butterflies and beetles is quite amazing.

I wish I knew my bees, but this little one went through each tiny trumpet. Flower clusters are no bigger than a nickel.

Helping them find pollen is key this time of year.

I find the most activity is in the perennial herb boarder.

Most culinary inclined gardeners prevent many herbs from flowering, unless to achieve seed harvesting in the late season. I however, allow many to go to flower and bolt in order to provide bees and other pollinators a chance to gather pollen (much needed now for overwintering preparations).

Don't under-estimate small flowers from herbs. Here is an assortment of perennial herbs that have tiny flowers that attract a lot of pollinator activity:

Lemon Balm

Mint

Spearmint

Summer Savory

Oregano

Basil

(Although, basil is not usually perennial in my zone (5b), this one self seeds every year)

Onion

Chives

Sage

Coriander

With multiple self seeded plantings in a season, this late bloom (albeit tiny flowers) attracts pollinators like crazy.

Please let them bolt and flower. Within 5 minutes of snapping shots, I captured about 4 different pollinators on varied flowers. 'Bee' amazed at what you'll see.

When all the herbs have a few stems that are allowed to flower at once, it's a sheer delight to hear all the buzzing go round.

I love harvest time - when tomatoes are at their best.

One variety I had the pleasure of trying this year, was this Yellow Pear Tomato. I love this tomato. I was given seed for this last fall and have had a bumper crop so far. It is an Heirloom Tomato and has been quite sturdy with all this heat we've had lately.

Slightly larger than a grape tomato - with an exceptional sweetness.

Considering I have grown them in this terra cotta pot, they have a pretty great yield. One bonus, the tomatoes don't all ripen at once. Great for grazing and not having to wait long periods between picking. Here, I gathered about 12 tomatoes and several are still left for later.

My aunt has grown them for ages; not only for their high yields, but for their low acidy. Not sure if it's the sweetness that dumbs the acidy, but I certainly have enjoyed them in salads - that's if they ever make it in the salad bowl. They are just so tasty off the vine.

A great companion to my sweet millions cherry tomato.

I've come to realize how important foliage is for planters and container designs. Foliage can certainly save and give a boost to an arrangement/design late in the season. When used as a staple true performer, they last when some flowering plants fizzle out due to extreme temperature changes or simply when it's their season to end bloom.

Useful as spillers, thrillers and fillers (to see what I mean by spillers, thrillers and fillers: see my post on Annual Planter Combinations that Work!), here are some of my favourites:

Part 1

Potato Vine - Ipomea "Blackie" (ideal for spiller effect)

...Or it's contrasting partner: Ipomea "Sweet Caroline Lime"

Coleus sp. (filler)

Plectranthus agrentatus 'Silver Shield' (spiller)

Polka-dot Plant - Hypoestes phyllostachya (filler)

Persian Shield - Strobilanthes dyerianus (filler and thriller)

Creeping Jenny Lysimachia nummularia 'Aurea' (Spiller)

Lamium (spiller)

Dusty Miller - Senecio cineraria [or now called Jacobaea maritima] (filler)

You can mix them together!

Whatever the application, the amount of colour and texture these leafy plants will display, your container or planter will definitely will bring you longevity in colour, texture and fun. Don't hasten your decision to add them to your favourite container. They are well worth their value.

Look for part two next week.
Until then,

... Continued from last week's Part 1 post:

More leafy choices for planters and raised beds:

Trailing Vinca major (spiller)

The great aspect of Vinca major - it is quite frost tolerant. It trails and trails - cut back at the tips and more growth and shoots force up from the root.

Elephant Ears - Alocasia sp. (thriller)

Move over Cannas, grasses and Millet - Alocasia come in all sizes and colours. They attract a lot of attention. Fun plant. Needs moisture for abundant leaves.

Lamiastrum galeobdolo 'Jade Frost' (spiller)

Whether you plant them on their own, or with other spillers, Jade Frost has shimmery silver bits to its leaves which really stand out.

Purple Velvet or Purple Passion Plant - Gynura aurantiaca (spiller)

Fuzzy purple leaves are quite attractive and unusual.

Lemon Scented Geranium: Pelargonium crispum 'variegatum' (filler)

Known to help deter mosquitos, I just love the curly shape regardless of their great lemony scent.

Iresine lindenii 'Cherry' (filler or thriller)

Red Bor Kale - Ornamental Kale (thriller...

or...

...it can even be used as a filler.) The Red Bor kale can be easily cut back and shoots regrow from the main stem. It's ideal for sunny spots and great for frost tolerance. It will last when all the other annuals have faded.

So many choices. Have fun selecting which ones you want and see how they make an impact. You don't just need to see flowers all growing season.

Every gardener, every hiker, and every outdoors person needs to familiarize themselves with this plant.

Plaintain - Plantago major

I have come to rely on Plantain - Plantago major every time mosquitos are at their worst and now - late summer/ early autumn, especially when wasps are at their wildest frenzy.

Thankfully, it grows everywhere. I see it growing in pavement cracks:

Found in turf:

Interlocking stone:

You can find it nearly anywhere. It likes disturbed soil too. You can find it along roadsides - you name it. Plantain has such a huge tolerance for drought, sunny spots and for shade too.

I get stung by wasps weekly and if it were not for Plantain, I would be rather miserable and unable to cope with working outdoors.

Please familiarize yourself to ID this plant.

Notable Plant Characteristics:
Deep leaf veins
Leathery thick foliage
Dark green foliage
Wrinkly leaves
Flat growth habit: it can grow right along the ground - gets missed by the lawn mower
Leaves are joined at one base
In soil, there are usually more than one plant grouped together, like in the very first photo above

If you're lucky, you'll see its flower and seed stalk. It stands above the foliage and looks like a bottle brush. Brown when aged and seeds are ripe.

How to use: once your skin gets bitten or stung, take a leaf and squish it between your fingers to release the plant juice.

Rub all over the bitten/stung area with this mushy, wet paste. Within seconds, you begin to notice the difference. Get another leaf and repeat.

Yesterday, I was stung by a hornet. I will admit, it took about 3 leaves worth of paste, but finally the pain subsided after a minute or two - to the point where I could continue working without a throbbing hand. I react to hornet stings terribly.

I also use the leaves when I have a blister. I take a fresh leaf and place it over my toe or the ankle and then put on my shoe. The leaf, remaining intact, relieves the soreness and the hurt from the blister as I walk and move about.

Plantago major has active chemical compounds in its leaves: aucubin (which is an anti-microbial agent), allantoin (which helps stimulate cellular growth) and mucilage (which helps reduce pain, swelling and discomfort).

Several books I read, state it is edible and used medicinally for other health benefits. It can also be used to help ease the discomfort of poison ivy.

Overall - a God send. I have transplanted several on my property. I always have an ample supply and don't remove it from my lawn.

I am lucky to live near a field full of Red Clover.

Trifoilium pratense

It grows everywhere at this site! No chemicals are sprayed, it's wild and this resource is just lovely - free. One bonus, the turf only gets mowed once a month, so this clover constantly revives and renews bloom.

As the botanical name indicates, it has three leaved foliage (tri-folium). Also notice the greyish green band on each leaf, as a clear ID marking.

Growing close to the ground, sometimes hidden in the grass.

Flowers stand taller from the base foliage and can easily be seen from a distance.

Last week, even this late in the season, I stopped and finally picked a paper-bag full. Why?

Many of my grow your own, DIY gardening books mention Red Clover as one of the best herbs, suited for tea. It has many medicinal properties and is known to be refreshing mixed with peppermint tea.

To Pick: You want lovely pink flowers that are more pink than brown, like the photo below. When picking, place the base of the flower between your index and middle finger and with your thumb pull up and the flower will easily pop off without being damaged. You can leave the basal leaves, but I remove as many as I can while picking.

How I dried them:

First, I washed them. I am sure there are those who believe washing the flowers will reduce the medicinal potency, but how many little bugs I saw in the bag after collecting made my mind up. WASH. I washed with cold water and let them soak for a minute or two.

When removing leaves or extra stem length, I dipped them into another bowl to shake off any bugs. I tried my best to get rid of them, but some were so tiny. After shaking off the excess water, I laid them down on a roasting pan with holes and clean paper towels to help dry them off further.

Above: you can see all the bits and little bugs at the bottom of the bowl. Be thorough - some of these bugs were thrips. You don't want thrips to come into your home if you have beloved house plants.

I decided to use my dehydrator for drying. I would rather just let it sun dry in a window sill, but this dehydrator will make sure any unwanted bugs will not stay on the flowers.

I laid them out with a lot of space between each flower. This allows a lot of air to circulate around each so they dry evenly.

I set the dehydrator at the lowest setting. It may take longer, but I want the flowers to hold as much of their natural potency as possible.

I dried them over-night.

The vibrant pink colour has diminished a bit, although much of the flowers kept their coloration. I read that the flowers should have more pink than brown after drying.

The flowers should be dry to the touch, but not crispy. The florets should still stay intact.

To avoid squishing them, I decided to store the dried flowers in a mason jar. I poked a few holes in the top lid and will store it in my dark pantry. Ready to make some tea.

I'm sorry, but I have to vent. As a horticulturist, there is nothing more irritating than arguing with "landscapers" who endorse the use of this:

Landscape Fabric

For every reason they use to recommend its use in garden beds, I have 5 reasons not to use it. It comes in various forms and I dislike every kind.

I've come to realize, most landscapers who use it horticulturally never maintain these sites after the installation.

Have you ever maintained dozens of locations with it on a daily basis? I have.

Here are some samples and proof of its redundancy:

1. Instead of repelling weeds, it does the above. It provides a great place where degrading mulch allow grass and other weeds to grow quite happily above the fabric.

2. You have to add a thick layer of mulch in order to hide the fabric. The combo depth of the mulch and fabric only allow minor amounts of moisture to actually reach plant roots. Wonderful.

3. Unavoidable left over, overlapped, excess fabric repels water and stunts root growth in these areas. Not to mention, it pops out and people pull on it, thinking it's garbage. Disturbing the whole look. These burning bushes above are 4 years old. They are still about the same size as when they were initially planted.

4. As the plant matures, its roots stick to the underside of the fabric and so when you try to remove a weed growing on top (that has rooted through), you wind up lifting the fabric, damaging tender fibrous roots of perennials and shrubs you're trying to protect.

5. I have seen dozens of perennials die from drought because this fabric does not allow enough rainfall to keep surface roots moist. The mulch on top gets damp, but no water seeps through beneath.

6. When the mulch composts, the fabric acts as a barrier and doesn't let the degraded material come in contact with the soil beneath.

7. When you rake debris off the mulch you expose the fabric. Taking off more mulch than leaves and unwanted debris.

8. This shiny black fabric absorbs heat and bakes the roots beneath.

9. A thin layer (2-3 inches) mulch on top of landscape fabric easily washes away during heavy rain storms.

10. It chokes the crown of perennials, making them stunted. These perennials were planted 4 years ago. Half the size they should be. The hole made in the fabric strangles the crown.

11. To lift and divide perennials or to remove dead ones, you end up damaging the fabric, causing frayed edges - making a complete mess.

Grrrrrr. I could go on...

Folks - if you insist on using this fabric, use it for weed control under trees and larger shrubs that are not situated in planting beds. Cut large holes into the fabric to account for mature growth. And PLEASE, use the biodegradable kind. The kind that will slowly degrade and not become a tangled mess after 4 to 5 years.

Truly, I think the kind used in the photos above, should only be used in hardscaping installations.

Ah, I feel better now. ;)

It's a sad thing when we don't truly take the time to enjoy the gifts of autumn displays. They truly don't come to full life until November.

In Canada, as soon as Halloween is over, the stores have all their Christmas displays set up and nothing of autumn is visible anymore.

Yet, the beauty remains outdoors. Time to bring some of that in - even though Christmas is still 7 weeks away.

Calamagrostis Karl Foerster grass seed heads are lovely when they wave in the wind. These sturdy dried flowers have had the wind blast them about. If these remain, you know they will keep well in your home too.

Pennisetum rubrum flowers are just so fluffy. Take the younger flowers when drying. The older ones will shed indoors.

I decided to take a bunch from each and make a small display for my hallway table.

Acorns and Alder cones make for a great decorative addition to any votive candle bowl or...

...decorative container. Add a few more pine cones come December and it will carry you through the Christmas season too.

There is nothing more beautiful than Acer rubrum (Red Maple) in full blaze of colour.

I simply dried these between wax paper sheets and placed inside a picture frame. Great colour for teak furniture decor.

Iris seed heads last throughout the winter. Dry & woody, they hold great shape.

So do Rudbeckia seed heads. Shake off the seeds as much as possible. Do leave some for the birds and winter interest too.

Allium sp. also have great seed heads to work with. You can even spray paint them to add a bit of colour to your arrangement.

I like the natural look. With a few dogwood stems as filler, they make a great display without having to buy dried stems from your local craft shop.

There - the great aspect: once Christmas decor items need to come out, these can still be saved and returned come January or whenever you want to display them again.

Enjoy what this November can offer.

We are lucky here in Southern Ontario. Frosts have been minimal and it has allowed me to make decorative evergreen creations outside a little later than usual. Mid December, the container medium is usually frozen.

I've held off this long, simply because there is nothing more frustrating than having evergreen boughs brown before Christmas. Too early and it is a shame - really a waste and a lot of work for nothing.

Similar to last year's - but with less greens.

I acquired some twigs and such from a friend who was discarding them. Hey - "reuse as much as you can", I say. Waste diversion is a good thing and what others toss away can bring you more joy in creating different designs like this one:

For others, I created these favourites:

Looking for some books at the thrift store, I found this metal envelop hanging container. It's a great door greeter! Add some greens, natural bits and voila - a really festive front welcoming decoration. Who needs a wreath?

I stuck with the same design for this rectangular planter as I did last year. It works, the mail carrier doesn't complain! Simple. Nearly all the accents were saved from 2 years ago!

Whatever you do....DON'T THROW OUT the TINY BITS! Bring them indoors. (Leave them in your shed or garage and bring them indoors closer to the time you begin entertaining). Add a bit of greens to your mantle, your dinner table or like me: my piano.

Hint: once you bring in evergreen cuttings, be aware: sap exudes from the fresh cuts. Select bits that aren't sticky.

I dab off the sap from the fresh cut ends on a paper towel and let them sit a while (about 10 minutes) prior to arranging.

DO NOT PLACE THESE FRESH CUTS DIRECTLY ON YOUR FURNITURE. They will cause sticky drips and ruin your wooden finish. Not to worry, there is a solution: add something beneath. Like a paper plate, or place them on an extra charger plate, or better yet, cut a piece of plastic to the right size and place beneath. How easy is that.

This was a plastic sheet packaging for calendar. I cut it into a circle, large enough for my cone arrangement. Tucking it under the cones, I then...

...wedged and arranged the cuttings just so. Cover all the unsightly bits.

Evergreen cuttings jazz up silk flowers perfectly.

Above all, be creative. Your home will smell amazingly festive and it will bring an inviting environment to help unite the folks you love.

Wishing you all a Merry Christmas!

I continue to get messages and comments regarding my mealy bugs on jade plants post. It's a sad reality, but a common ground for those of us who love our houseplants and want to save them.

Here is an update of my previous post regarding that sad jade plant that we rescued.

After spraying with water, dabbing with alcohol and repotting; the jade plant is starting to really bounce back. It's been over a year since any mealy bugs have been seen. It was a labour of love. Staking it now - we are trying to regain a balanced growth habit. I just wish we had more light to get tighter stem growth.

No more distorted leaves and white flakey bits in the leaf axils. All clean.

Interesting enough, 3 months ago, a huge jade plant was gifted to us and on close inspection, it too was covered in mealy bug.

I didn't even take a picture of the before, as it went straight into the bathtub and got a spray down. I wasn't going to allow mealy to take over the house. This plant was worse. However, while trying to spray the plant down, the tightness of growth habit didn't allow for a thorough job. Instead, the power washer was used on a softer spray setting and all the nooks and crannies were blasted.

This is the result. After a thorough blast, a heavy prune (to thin out and expose the inside of the plant) and the removal of nearly all the top portion of soil - it's starting to come back.

All the pruned lesions are showing new buds and growth.

As you can see, some of the spray from the power washer made damaging holes. No worries. Once more leaves emerge, I will pinch this leaf off.

With healthy new leaves and tons of new growth - within a year, this jade plant will begin to look as good as when it was gifted to us.

Who needs chemicals?

I'm at a loss. I'm trying to figure out what is happening to the vocation of horticulture.

Attending Landscape Ontario Congress this past January, I specifically stopped to look at the horticulture job postings, even though I was not interested in changing my current position. I like to get a scope of what sort of trends are happening within horticultural employment.

Perhaps it was a bit sparse at that time of year, but for me, it seemed too meagre in comparison to all the, landscaper forepersons, landscape team member, landscape maintenance worker positions posted. I was hard pressed to find many 'Horticulturist' or 'Gardener' postings at all.

Why is this happening?

I get the whole - bring the inside out, for the 'outdoor living' aspect of landscape trends. Yet, the distinct absence in trained, qualified horticulturists is quite alarming for me. Especially since I lead a team of what I hope will be "knowledgable" staff year to year.

I can't help but think that North Americans are using the term landscaper too much. To me, the word 'landscaper' encompasses too broad a term when dealing with our outdoor spaces. It's been widely adopted, because the various vocations concerning the installation and maintenance of gardens outdoors can be limiting to earning a consistent living. That's my estimation, anyway. If I were to say I was a landscaper to a client, I then could add to my list of abilities outside of gardening: turf maintenance, carpentry, masonry, etc... possibly snagging more than one job.

Yet, aren't we hurting horticulture and the other trades by hiring "landscapers"? Aren't we losing horticultural trades distinction by not hiring hopeful apprentices? Any one with a gas powered hedge trimmer or string trimmer is getting hort based jobs now. Anyone claiming they have "gardening" experience are getting the horticulture jobs out there.

When trying to explain to strangers, what it is that I do for a living, many people cock their heads to one side when I say I am a horticulturist. I have to break it down that I grow plant material and tend to gardens.

If I were to say I am a horticulturist in the UK or Europe, most people would nod in understanding. Here, it's a sad state of having to explain oneself all the time.

Hmmm. You don't see Stone Masons or Carpenters or Arborists losing their niche. They have certification, or have apprenticed for many years to develop their skill. The proof is in the pudding. Well so do horticulturists.

Please, the next time you seek gardening maintenance, invest in Horticulturists. Invest in those of us who have been educated in horticulture and deserve a good living at it. Invest in the future of horticulture. Get more bang for your buck because of those of us that LOVE and respect horticulture as a true trade. We know how to manage your gardens properly. Reduce the need for landscapers who can do any job on the cheap. Allow us to make your outdoor living spaces thrive!

Rant is over.

I was driving through my old 'hood this afternoon (northern Etobicoke), when I was distracted by a roadside invader that has caused a visual barrier that never used to be there. As a teen, I used to cross this roadway to reach to the other side. Now I can barely see what lies beyond the reed grass growing in this spot. I can't imagine what it would look like in summer. No pruning gets done here. New spring growth will eventually weave through this winter thatch.

I can't get over, how in the last 5 years, this invader has taken over.

Phragmites australis is a native to Eurasia and seems to be unstoppable.

Ah...excuse me Toronto, we have a problem. Southern Ontario, we have a MAJOR problem.

Within a 500 meter walking distance, the familiar Bullrushes /Cattails I used to collect as a kid still survive. Just barely, that is.

Not the most attractive photo due to the time of year, but this Cattail (Typha latifolia) was original to this roadside ditch. The area just north of this commercial landscape is 1km south of the northern branch of the Humber River.

It naturally migrated down south from the river and has done a marvellous job of reducing stagnant water ways along these ditches. I can remember running my fingers over the reeds for a lengthy distance.

I would always be amazed when watching so many birds take the fuzzy seed heads and make spring nests for their egg laying, given it's right next to a busy roadside. I am glad they still remain. But for how much longer?

This 500 meter stretch has more Phragmites than Typha. So sad.

It's not a bad looking grass. But look at the size of it!

It towers over my head by at least another 3 feet.

My greatest worry: the Humber River is just 1km north. The Toronto Regional Conservation Authority has confirmed it has reached the rivers' ecosystem already. This is the greatest concern for me. Phragmites has such an aggressive root system that can overtake native species rather quickly. It is a true bully: by releasing a toxic by-product at the root level, which hampers the growth of native plants trying to compete. People - this is a huge ecological factor to our wetlands and native flora and fauna. Please read up on how invasive this plant is here ---> Ontario's Invading Species Awareness website. There you will find ways to hamper its spread.

If you own property, and you notice this plant, please do your best to keep it at bay or to remove it entirely from your land.

I've seen folks cutting some of the flower plumes to take indoors. Just know, when doing so you might be the catalyst in bringing hundreds of seeds, possibly spreading this bully to your neck of the woods. Be wise.

Here are practical ways to help control this invader: Ontario Phragmites Working Group .

I have to say, the City of Toronto Indoor Plant display wowed me at Canada Blooms. Many exterior landscapes, flower arrangements and houseplants were awesome, but this booth made my visit well worth it.

If you love houseplants and music (especially Jazz quartets or a 4 piece musical ensemble), this display is for you!

Using succulents, air plants, epiphytes and imported real cork bark - a real whimsical theme was created.

I was told it took 190 hours of labour, many hands to construct the structure and two very talented growers from the City of Toronto to put it all together.

Congratulations for winning, Best Use of Indoor Plant Material and the Best Use of Colour for a booth display!

One of my favourite aspects: all the plants will be reused and resituated in the City's two conservatories: in Alan Gardens and Centennial Park. No waste. One of my pet-peves is seeing plants nearly dead at the end of a Blooms show. These held up quite well and will be all returned to the greenhouses once the show closes.

Bravo and hats off to a wonderful creative flow, layout and fun City initiative!

Click here to see more beautiful horticulture displays that the City has to offer.

There is nothing more satisfying than seeing the fruits of your autumn labour bloom before your eyes.

Spring's arrival took its time this year and it was well worth it. This past winter wasn't as harsh as the last three and this spring is showing proof of success. As I worked in the garden today, a huge sigh and deep breath of satisfaction allowed me to enjoy these lovely early season blooms.

Some may be new to you. These, I cannot part with:

Early spring Anemone bland "Blue Shades" . They just blanket the ground. So delicate and display such a vibrant blue for the garden.

Psuchkinia libanotica, similarly to scilla - their colour is quite unique.

Chionodoxa luciliae 'alba' - star shaped wonder.

Pulmonaria saccharata - quite common, but I love how the flowers change from pink to blue.

Narcissus 'Tete a Tete': I love how they flower before the larger cultivars. Their compact size, really make a big impact.

Hellebores - no other flowers can compare.

Scilla - whether you enjoy the blue, light blue or white cultivars, they naturalize and flower for lengthy periods like no other bulb.

Galanthus nivalis - one of the earliest to show us spring has arrived. Their delicate beauty means - Spring!

All the above plants are ideal for the naturalized perennial border. Nearly no work. Just allow those that are bulbs to fade and go completely yellow. Just don't forget to deadhead after the flowers have faded - to promote bloom for next year. The others just fade into the background and allow other plants to take centre stage.

A good amount of compost and some blood and bone meal throughout the summer, and they will delight you again next April.

Enjoy!

One of the draw backs to inviting birds to your garden (via a bird bath), are birds that can cause damage.

On closer inspection, the young Austrian Pine (Pinus nigra) situated closest to the bird bath had some buds that were rather small compared to the other side.

Strangely enough, being so close, the tree benefits from having extra waterings with us refilling and cleaning the bird bath frequently. So it isn't lack of moisture.

The needle buds on the other side are twice the size. These are still tight.

Seeing only two holes on the one side, I couldn't figure out why some of the needles were drooping and the buds were smaller.

It wasn't until I walked around to the other side, when I saw this severe damage. Wow. This is not just woodpecker damage, but a feeding site of the Yellow Bellied Sapsucker. Looking in our bird-book, we noticed our location is one of the stomping grounds for this migratory bird to pass through. Lovely to see, but wow, such damage for such a little feathered visitor.

They feed on the sap flowing in spring. They make these distinctive sap-wells, all in a row. Many insects get stuck in the gooey sap and I am sure they add flavour to the Sapsucker's meal! It may marvel you on how they feed, but our poor tree...

What to do now?

Noticing squirrels are interested in this damage, we decided to take action and cover the wounded area. Burlap was our choice. It's breathable, readily available and like a cloth bandage, we want to be able to remove it, in order to monitor it. This way, we can clean out any debris and or insects so the plant can seal off those wounds on its own.

One long strip - the width of the damage, only wrapped around once - tied off taut.

You can use bird tanglefoot products that you can spread over the area, to prevent more damage but I rather let the tree do its own restorative healing first. Since our area is along the Sapsuckers migratory path, I don't fear it will return to feed again.

Going to add some compost leaves from last autumn under the drip line of the tree - this will enrich the soil and help keep the roots from drying out too much. Given we are still experiencing a moist spring, any dry periods we will supplement with waterings. The more hydrated the tree will be, the better chance it will have to heal.

Will update you on the trees progress as it seals the wound. Fingers crossed.

When you have limited space, dense shade and you want to cover a fence line which is rather unsightly - you have limited choices in what to use.

I wanted to have some evergreen coverage to look at during the winter. I've tried Hedera helix (English Ivy) in my situation, but with little success. Too much die-back overwinter and very little growth rate. So I gave up.

Two years ago, I started Euonymus fortunei 'Coloratus' (Purpleleaf Winter-Creeper) out of sheer desperation. In garden centres, it comes in cell packs: tiny little plants to start off, but worth the wait. Used mainly as a ground cover, I decided to give it a go...

Positioning it close to the wooden fence in early spring (when there were no leaves on the above tree) it took and began rooting its way up. Today, it looks like this:

Given there is a bit of winter leaf scorch damage visible, it's turning out rather nicely. By the end of June, all the worst of the brown leaves will fall off and new growth will cover the rest.

Here, you can see I used a metal framed art (from Homesense) to help support the growth, although - this is not necessary. Euonymus can become self clinging with a little coaxing. I just lightly bound the stems as it inched upwards in mid-summer to the wood, with a little garden wire, forcing the growth to fix to one area. By the end of the first summer, it had stem rootlets fixing itself onto the cedar panel. Yay!

Last year, I planted an Emerald Gaiety variety (with white variegation). This one is very slow to grow, compared to the Coloratus cultivar. I still leave the supportive wire here, as it's taking its time reaching the desired height.

My intention is to grow these as backdrops, adding perhaps clematis or some Lamiastrum galeobdolon argentatum weaved through.

Here's another example of Euonymus (Sheridan Gold) which grew amazingly well in full sun, on a trellis fence partition:

Because the lattice wood has so many gaps, this needs a little encouragement to fixate and grow on the partition. By gently taking new, pliable stems - you weave them between the gaps and it will fill in nicely.

Euonymus can grow rather woody, so bear that in mind when you decide on what it will adhere to. You want whatever it climbs along to be sturdy enough to bear the mature weight of the plant as it grows.

The best aspect about these as vines:

they are slow growing compared to most vines
evergreen (in Ontario, there are few choices that give you great winter coverage)
won't damage the fence too much, as you can easily control their growth habit
shade tolerant and...
drought tolerant

Try it yourself!

Having this Corylus avellana contorta 'Red Majestic' now for several years, I thought we were in the clear of it ever developing Eastern Filbert Blight.

As the leaves unfurl, I always take a good look to be sure. I examine the stems thoroughly. Leaves should be slightly crinkly and the stems should be grey with lighter lenticels.

This spring two branches are showing signs of disease. It's easy to detect. Lack of leaves, dry and flaking bark tissue and the loss of the smooth grey bark are tell-tale signs the plant has Eastern Filbert Blight.

The pathogen, Anisogramma anomala has invaded lenticels on some of the bottom stems, as shown here. I cut them off and brought them to a less distracted background for ID.

The pathogen splashes on to leaves and young stems, in this case enveloping the lenticels (stem breathing pores) and causing cankers. These cankers can appear 12-16 months after the initial infection. The cankers swell and expand, splitting the bark tissue, causing die-back and eventual stem decay.

The lenticels will darken with the bacterium and will become quite woody - hard.

I remember having a colleague tell me these were Scale Insects. From afar, they may look that way, but with this close up, you can see it's a canker for sure!

TREATEMENT: Cut back infected branches or to healthy growth with no evidence of cankers; to the main stem during dry conditions. Destroy or put in garbage. DO NOT COMPOST THESE INFECTED STEMS. Disinfect pruning tools after each cut. Prevent over-head irrigation/watering, especially any splashing throughout the spring/summer. Keep your eye on the plant throughout the summer months and prune away any stems where lenticels are becoming distorted.

With our situation, we are going to have a tough go - with the pond so close. Fingers crossed.

It's a common disease within Nursery Greenhouse Growing conditions. Can wipe out an entire plant if it's not nipped in the 'bud'.

Hint: One of the things I look out for when purchasing any Filbert (Corylus sp.) plant at the Garden Centre/Nursery. If you see these cankers, if so - look elsewhere. It's too bad this one now has it.

As soon as I walked by this rose, I noticed webbing and some caterpillar frass (poop) nearest the tips of new buds. Uh-oh...

It took me a while to ID this critter, as there is so much misinformation out there.

But the evidence of what I am dealing with, is in the classification of the insect's shape, form and colouration.

It looks as though we have a Cnaemidophorus rhododactyla larvae feeding on these Rosa glauca flower buds.

I've seen posts naming this same larvae as Rose Budworm, Leaf-roller, Sawfly and Rose Chaffer larvae.

Something was amiss. The shape and colouration of the larvae didn't match the information I looked through. Thankfully, the tapered - semi dotted red stripe behind the head was a true help in trying to ID it.

It's a alien Moth, originating from Europe. This saddens me, as I hate to see non-native insects devouring my plants. For now, the control I am using is hand removal. I collected about 7 off this rose bush alone. They fed on nearly 20 blooms already, starting from the base of the bush. They make huge puncture holes in the rose buds and eat the entire contents, leaving only the sepal leaves (rose bud outer casing leaves).

One positive outcome: I tossed the larvae on the patio near by and a lovely Robin came and had an easy meal. Yum!

I love Rosa glauca for it's simple, open faced flowers that pollinators adore. I am really vigilant in trying to remove the larvae as much as possible. We had such a prolonged cold spring, and now to see potential blooms withering from damage, is rather disheartening.

Just note: It is important to get specific info in dealing with larvae, especially if you want use biological controls like BTK sprays.

Caterpillars can fall under several classifications based upon leg appendages, segments of their abdomens and for some, prolegs. So Sawflies, beetles and fly larva's will not be affected by BTK controls.

Use this great site to help you pin-point and ID what you are dealing with before you choose a spray control or removal. ----> Bug Guide Website Don't forget, there are many beneficial insects that are a gardener's best friend.

Click on this link for more info and photos of the Cnaemidphorus rhododactyla larvae and moth.

Anyone who knows me, knows I LOVE Hostas. Er, um - Hostas placed just right, that is. I really don't have a passion for the rare, the newly introduced, but the well utilized and well situated ones.

This post demonstrates all that.

These are ALL hostas and from afar, one would think you have varying different kinds of perennials achieving this look. Placed in dappled shade, under a canopy of a Norway (Acer platanoides) Maple, these hostas are in the right spot. Slightly elevated to show their mounding form. Not overcrowded and not too close. Nicely mulched with shredded cedar bark to help lock in moisture and well weeded to keep them flourishing. They are so well situated and happy. Don't they look great?!

I'm so blessed to photograph and enjoy them that I had to share. I had an amazing privilege to help co-host a Through The Garden Gate Tour 2016 at a most lovely home in The Kingsway area (Etobicoke) this past Sunday. The best treat - it was hosted by my wonderful friend and home owner, Elizabeth (Beth) Endean.

I have seen this garden come alive right from the onset of the original planting and know the hard work it took to accomplish this result. I am so proud of what Beth and her two helpers have achieved.

One of Beth's gifts, is her eye for colour. She amazes me in all her accomplishments. Especially her love for the colour GREEN. Her use of lime green Hostas like "Paul's Gold" and "Guacamole" really brighten more shaded spots in her garden. With the more white variegated varieties like "Fire and Ice" Hosta, she grouped them in areas closest to the walkway. They certainly pack a punch and really draw your eye to stop and have a closer look. Her 'green' thumb shows up in all areas of plant selection and placement.

Who needs any other perennial when you create a colour palette like this?

Even great back drops like Euonymus fortunei 'Coloratus' and Vinca minor Periwinkle show them off even more.

I am truly blessed and thankful to have been able to take part and see all the wonderful people enjoy Beth's lovely garden. So many onlookers commented on the choices, placement and variety of what was displayed.

You go-grow, Girl! Great job!

Here's a video of the TBG tour and more info regarding Beth's delightful garden!

Plant Profile: Hosta plantaginea var. japonica

Perennial Herbs - Key for Pollinators

Plant Profile: Low Acid Yellow Pear Tomato

Leafy Choices: Foliage For Planters - Part 1

Leafy Choices: Foliage for Planters - Part 2

Plant Hero: Plantain - Plantago major

Collecting Red Clover (Trifolium pratense) Flowers For Tea

Why I Hate Landscape Fabric

I'm Not Done With Autumn Yet - Bringing It Indoors

A Little Fun With Christmas Greens

Common Houseplant Pests: Part 4 Mealy Bugs (Update)

What's happening to Horticulture as a trade?

Toronto's Invader: Phragmites australis

Canada Blooms 2016- City of Toronto Indoor Plant Display

Early Blooms That I Cannot Garden Without

Sapsucker Damage - Pinus nigra

Training Euonymus as a Climber

Anisogramma anomala - Eastern Filbert Blight on Corylus

Cnaemidophorus rhododactyla Larvae Eating Rose Buds

Through the Garden Gate, Where The Hostas Grow!